In a pivotal move, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is contemplating the prohibition of certain hair-straightening chemicals, long-employed by Black women, which recent research suggests may pose an elevated risk of uterine cancer. However, the landscape of hair care has transformed significantly, with the products under scrutiny now largely out of favor, particularly among the younger generations.
The Decline of Relaxers
Kayleigh Butler, a seasoned hair stylist based in Atlanta, reminisces about her own experience with relaxers since the tender age of 5. She notes, “Relaxers have taken an extreme decline… as we became more knowledgeable about the effects of the relaxer on your hair and what it can do to your hair. I think people just wanted to move away from that and live a healthier lifestyle.”
The FDA’s Deliberations
At present, the FDA is in the initial stages of addressing this issue, with a notice of a possible rule recently added to its regulatory agenda. While they aim to release an advance notice of proposed rulemaking by April 2024, it’s essential to recognize that such items can linger on the agenda for years. The proposed rule, if enacted, will impact both salon-grade and at-home hair-straightening products.
Industry Reactions
Jasmine Garcia, owner of Jasmine Nicole Xclusives Hair Salon in Atlanta, revealed that less than 5% of her Black clientele express an interest in relaxers. She highlighted a client’s reaction to the potential ban, questioning the timing and stating, “Of all the things the FDA needs to look into, why relaxers right now?”
The Call for Investigation
In a call for investigation, U.S. Reps. Ayanna Pressley of Massachusetts and Shontel Brown of Ohio pointed to a 2022 study by the National Institutes of Health linking straighteners to increased uterine cancer risk. Pressley expressed her support for the FDA’s possible actions, emphasizing its significance in safeguarding the health of Black women.
Research Findings
A recent study conducted by Boston University, published in the journal Environmental Research, tracked approximately 45,000 Black women for up to 22 years, a majority of whom were moderate or heavy users of relaxers. Among postmenopausal women, the study revealed that frequent relaxer users faced a greater than 50% increased risk of uterine cancer compared to infrequent users.
A Step in the Right Direction
The study’s co-author, Dr. Kimberly Bertrand, acknowledged that FDA action would be a step in the right direction but stressed the importance of not solely focusing on formaldehyde. She stated, “I think consideration of endocrine disrupters like phthalates and parabens would be important, and heavy metals, too. Getting rid of formaldehyde in these products certainly is a good thing, but… I don’t know that it renders those products completely safe.”
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Societal Pressures
Dr. Yolanda Lenzy, a dermatologist and licensed cosmetologist who also co-authored the Boston University study, commented on the persistent societal pressures for Black women to maintain straight hair, especially in conservative job fields such as law. Although 24 states have implemented laws against hairstyle discrimination, incidents like the high school student’s suspension in Texas due to his locs indicate that the issue still persists. Dr. Lenzy pondered, “What does that really mean?”
In Conclusion
As the FDA considers a ban on hair-straightening chemicals, it signals a pivotal moment in the evolution of hair care, particularly within the Black community. While the potential risks of these chemicals are under scrutiny, it’s clear that the landscape of hair care has already undergone significant change, driven by a desire for healthier alternatives. This shift in attitudes and the potential regulatory changes reflect a broader conversation about diversity, inclusion, and health in the beauty and cosmetics industry.
